Type of Item
After considering lots of possibilities, I was attracted to the idea of making a box, partly because I liked the variety of shapes that could be constructed and partly because I wanted to learn a bit about box-making (which I have never done before). In addition, I wanted to incorporate Shibori dyed fabrics (because I enjoyed this aspect of the module so much) and I also wanted to incorporate a tassel in the finished item (because I like the 3D, tactile effect of tassels). After deliberating about various shapes, I decided to construct a small embellished chest, partly because I was attracted to the shape, and also I could envisage using a design based on the Fibonnacci series for the curved top, back and front. I used Janet Edmonds book “Beginners Guide to Embroidered Boxes” as my main reference for ideas and instructions on how to construct a box.
I thought that the repetition of various stripes could be used to give continuity from the top to the back, front and base.
Development of a Theme
My initial sketches (above) were based mainly around the box/chest concept, but did not have a unifying design theme. Following some initial discussions with Sian I realised that I needed to focus more on this aspect in order to develop the design. After looking back on my initial research, I decided to base my embellishment of the chest on the concept of tiger patterns. The idea was to produce a chest to take on a Tiger Safari. This picture shows my initial tiger photos and sketches from Chapter 4, which I used as a starting point.
The shibori technique of irashi produces patterned fabrics reminiscent of tiger markings which I thought would be ideal for this piece. I also found the marking on the tiger's head very appealing and decided to try to incorporate this as well. Finally I thought it might be fun to see if I could create some marks which were suggestive of paw prints.
Selecting the Dyed fabrics
I started off experimenting with fabric dyeing to try to create some tiger-style patterns to use in my designs. I fortuitously tried a different bleach (Domestos cleaner) to bleach shapes on to black fabrics, and found that it produced an orange colour if the bleaching process was stopped part way through. This enabled me to use irashi discharge dyeing to create a lovely orange and black tiger stripe fabric to use. I also had a great blue and black irashi dyed tiger-style fabric from an earlier section of the work, so I decided to use this as the lining for the box. After I found I could produce orange colours on black with the new bleach, I experimented with a few possible ways of producing paw prints. I found that the most successful was to cut out shapes in a thin kitchen sponge then apply these to the fabric and soak them with bleach.
I had produced an interesting sample in Chapter 11 where blackwork panels were combined with other fabrics in a Fibonacci style striped piece. Building on this, I thought of the idea of stitching the head motif in blackwork to provide a contrast with the machine stitched fabrics. I started experimenting with the motif bleached onto the fabric and then adding orange stitching, but abandoned this after I produced the irashi patterned black and orange tiger print, as the whole piece was becoming too dark. I finally decided to stitch the motif in black threads on a beige background to blend with, but provide a contrast to, the black and orange discharged fabrics I wanted to use on the outside of the box. I experimented with dyeing the linen using teabags to obtain a suitable background colour. I may use some sort of stitching on the earlier orange and black motif on the inside of the chest, as I think it could create an interesting contrast to the blue lining.
I decided to use a different fabric on the sides and base of the box to provide interest and contrast, and looked at several options (see next section). I eventually chose a piece I had made earlier in the module using bleach discharged folded and clamped black fabric. The two photos here show the fabrics selected for the outside (left) and inside (right) of the box. Some samples of potential stitching are also shown.
Designs for the Chest Panels
The next series of pictures shows various panel designs that I experimented with, using photocopies of fabric samples. The lid was the starting point.
The first picture shows the design for the lid and back, which is a continuous panel. I used strips of the tiger print combined with the black work motif and then cut this up into panels and placed alternating black strips and paw strips in between. The strong horizontal strips reinfroce the idea of a traveller's trunk. The second picture shows the related design for the front of the chest and the first option I tried for the base. I decided against this option because the orange colour was not quite right and also I thought the continuity might be better if the sides and base were more closely related.
Consequently I tried various options for piecing different fabrics for the sides, including some options with blackwork (see left), finally deciding on the combination on the right, which shows mock ups of the sides and the base.
Paper Mock Up of Chest
A paper mock up of the chest with decorated panels made from photocopies of fabrics is shown below (front and side views). I added a tassel to the centre front, made from a fringed piece of the tiger stripe fabric which was knotted and joined to the top. I also considered adding some triangles of a plain mustard fabric to simulate hinges, but in the end decided that this was a bit fussy and unnecessary.
Decorated Fabric Samples
I experimented with various forms of stitching to decorate the fabrics. The paw prints were decorated with a machined pattern using cable stitch and a Pearl 8 orange thread. Texture was added to the tiger stripe fabric using bands of black and orange zig-zag stitches, varying the length and width of the bands.
The blackwork panels were done by hand using a black Pearl 12 thread. The main fabric for the base and sides was decorated with close rows of plain cable stitch, using Pearl 5 threads two different colours. The picture below shows sample panels for the front and base/side of the chest in the selected decorated fabrics.
Fabric Mock Up of Chest
I practised constructing the chest using some commercially printed black and white fabrics and pelmet Vilene as the stiffening. I machined the outer and inner fabrics to the Vilene, as recommended by Janet Edmonds, then tried a few different methods for joining the sides to the front and back. I did not like the effect of the Ladder stitch which had been recommended and found it difficult to work with. Eventually I decided that a Palestrina knot insertion stitch in Pearl 5 thread gave a pleasing effect. I worked one row in an orange-red thread for the sample, so it could be seen more easily (see below). The basic shape and construction of the chest was fine, but a few enhancements will be used to improve the final item. These are:
• Devise a method to avoid doubling up on the stitching on the outside, which looks messy, perhaps by basting the fabrics to the stiffening and then relying on the Palestrina knot insertion stitch to hold it all together. However, I do not want to completely neaten the edges because I think that the loose threads on the edges add a bit of texture and give the impression of a utilitarian object.
• Improve the closure system, as the weight of the tassel was not sufficient to hold the lid down satisfactorily. I think it will need something to hold the lid in place - perhaps a twisted or plaited cord which could be wound around a bead , button or toggle. However I still like the effect of the tassel and want to incorporate this if possible in the final version.
A few views of the mock up, showing the detail of the construction, are shown below. At this stage I feel ready to proceed with the construction of my Tiger Chest, using the design elements described in this section.
