Friday, May 2, 2014

M5, Chapter 7: TACTILE CONTRASTS

In this section I made an experimental sampler involving several manipulation techniques, with the aim of producing lots of  textural contrast. This was achieved through varying the choice of fabric, as well as the manipulation technique.  I limited myself to 4 ecru coloured fabrics on a black background. The fabrics were cotton calico, cotton osnaburg, silk crepe and polyester polar fleece. These were chosen because they each felt different to the touch and offered different draping properties. Examples were produced with machine or hand stitching or a combination. Samples were placed on the black background in an order which highlighted the tactile contrasts as you moved your fingers across the sampler e.g smooth vs rough or fuzzy, high vs low, regular vs irregular. A touch of white paint was added to the raised surfaces of the fabric at the end, but I did not think this added a lot to the overall effect.
Here is the complete view of the sampler, followed by two close ups of different sections .
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Sample Key: I chose this  sample shape because it was a  bit more interesting than a strict rectangle or square. For the descriptions below, please refer to the row  letter and then the sample number going along each row form the letter e.g. in the above picture bottom left is A1 and top right is E2.
 
Description of Each Square
P1070978A1: Strips of calico and osnaburg cut along one side then coiled and stitched into place.The cut sections were then fanned out to give a tufted flowery effect.
A2: Calico strips put through a smocking pleater then small sections cut and secured by hand. A thread was bound around the middle of each small piece to give a flattish bow tie shape.
B1: Polar fleece placed over a square of cotton chenille and then three lines of quilting worked between each ridge of chenille to give the undulating effect.
B2: A loopy piece of cord was machine stitched under a square of osnaburg using zigzag stitch. The edges of the fabric were fringed and the cord knotted to finish the sample.
B3: Circles of Polar fleece were gathered by hand and then stuffed with polyester wadding to form the balls. The threads used to stitch the balls to the background were left hanging and tied to give the impression of a bunch of fluffy balloons.
C1: Strips of silk crepe were folded, machined and cut into flat sections. These were arranged in a lattice on the black background, with the top rows knotted for added texture.
C2: A large square of osnaburg was gathered onto a smaller square of Vilene backing. The wrinkled surface was caught at intervals with small hand stitches to secure the fabric in place (furrowing technique).
C3: A spiral shape was hand quilted with running stitch onto silk crepe backed with wool wadding.
C4: A square of silk crepe was attached with zigzag machining to a square of Tyvek. The Tyvek was then shrunk by hovering a hot dry iron over it. This had the effect of drawing in the silk fabric into a loosely wrinkled shape.
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D1: Two layers of silk crepe were joined by machine around the centre ring and turned right side out. They were then joined on 3 sides by machine to a backing layer of osnaburg. This bag was also turned right side out and a small piece of calico which which had been passed through the smocking pleater was inserted into the peep hole. Finally wadding was inserted between the two layers of crepe to puff up “frame” or “pillow” and then the fourth side of the bag was stitched up by hand.
D2: Circles of calico were gathered by running stitch part way across each. The threads were drawn up and wadding added to puff out the centres giving a flower-like appearance.
D3: A strip of calico was gathered in the smocking pleater and then manipulated into a raised circular shape which looked a bit like a mountain. Hand stitches were added to hold the shape in place.
E1: Rows of tucks were machined on cotton osnaburg and then slashes made at random along the folds to add more texture.
E2: Silk crepe with a layer of wool batting underneath was held in a hoop and a meander patter worked by free machine embroidery. Shirring elastic was used in the machine bobbin so that the fabric bunched up when it was removed from the hoop.

REFERENCE: Colette Wolff, "The Art of Manipulating Fabric", Krause Publications, Wisconsin, 1996

M5 Chapter 6: TUCKS, PLEATS & GATHERS

In this section I experimented with a number of variations of tucks, pleats & gathers.  A tuck is a fold stitched along its length. A pleat is a fold pressed into shape. A gather is fabric pulled (bunched) along an inserted  item such as a thread, stick or ribbon. I investigated several different types of fabrics and stitching, both hand and machine to create different visual and textural effects. I concluded that  the choice of both fabric and technique have an influence on the impact of the finished item. Fabrics & techniques are summarized below.
PINTUCKS Sheet 1
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Sample 1: Single needle machining on cotton polyester; Sample 2: Twin needle machining on cotton polyester; Sample 3: Twin needle machine, wavy & straight lines in 2 directions on polyester satin.
PINTUCKS Sheet 2
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These two samples were visually pleasing, enhanced by the choice of fabric. Sample 4: Multiple lines of twin needle machining on silk organza, then fabric cut into pieces & re-joined with rows of stitching at right angles; Sample 5: Diagonal & horizontal lines of twin needle machining on polyester satin.
PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 1
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Sample 6: Wavy lines of tucks worked in running stitch on cotton polyester. It was difficult to get a smooth curve; Sample 7: Zigzag lines of tucks machined on cotton polyester.

PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 2
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Sample 8: Box pleats centred & double centred on cotton polyester; Sample 9: Shell tucks stitched by hand on polyester/elastane blend.
PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 3
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Sample 10: Darts machined half way across cotton polyester sample alternating the starting point from left or right. The resulting shape bulged and gave a 3-D effect; Sample 11; Darts machined the full width of cotton polyester sample.
PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 4
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Sample 12: Tucks of varying widths machined on silk organza, then fabric turned over & folded in new directions to make extra tucks; Sample 13: Pintucks machined on folds of polyester satin, then fabric was cut into pieces and re-joined with tucks in a different (diagonal) direction.

PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 5
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All of these samples were quite interesting and produced different textural effects. Sample 14: Tucks formed and machined in place on polyester/linen blend, then threads withdrawn to give a loopy appearance; Sample 15: Rows of tucks machined on cotton osnaburg and then slashes made at random along the folds; Sample 16: Rows of tucks machined on cotton osnaburg and then folds joined at intervals with handstitched ties.
PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 6
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These samples also had future possibilities. Sample 17: Wool held in place with twin needle stitching to make a padded tuck, then fabric folded and machined in diagonal tucks; Sample 18:Rows of blind tucks made in cotton polyester fabric, then direction of folds changed and held in place with extra stitching to give an undulating effect.
PLEATS & TUCKS Sheet 7
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These samples gave some interesting effects. Sample 19: Silk organza tucks slashed and  sections folded back to make angled folds; Sample 20: Tucks machined in place on cotton polyester and padded with pieces of plastic straw; Sample 21: Tucks machined in place on cotton polyester and filled with pipe cleaners. Fabric was ruched a bit for added interest; Sample 22: Wide tucks machined in place on silk habutai, then rectangles cut out from each fold. A painted stiff fabric strip was then threaded through each fold.
GATHERING Sheet 1
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Again, some visually pleasing effects, especially the texture achieved in sample 24. Sample 23: Loose hand gathering on silk organza; Sample 24: Linen/polyester weave gathered in both directions by machine. Sample 25: Zigzag machine stitching over satay sticks on cotton/polyester weave, then fabric pushed up to gather it along the sticks.
GATHERING Sheet 2
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Sample 26: Linen/polyester weave gathered in rows by pulling a thread; Sample 27: Cotton/polyester weave gathered in three spirals using free machine stitching with fabric in a hoop. I liked the impression created in this sample.
PLEATING - GATHERING Sheet 3
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Sample 28: Silk crepe pleated/gathered with a smocking pleater then stitching worked by hand over the top; Sample 29: Cotton/polyester weave pleated/gathered with a smocking pleater then machined with zigzag stitch over the top with Perle 5 thread in the bobbin.
GATHERING - SHIRRING Sheet 4
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Sample 30: Cotton/polyester weave gathered in wavy lines by machine with shirring elastic in the bobbin; Sample 31: Silk habutai gathered in jagged zigzag lines by machine with shirring elastic in the bobbin.
GATHERING - SHIRRING Sheet 5
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All of these samples suggest interesting textural possibilities for the future. Sample 32: Circular furrows worked by hand on cotton/polyester weave gathered onto a circle of Vilene backing fabric; Sample 33: Suffolk puffs (or yo-yos if in the USA) made by gathering circles of silk crepe; Sample 34: Dimpled circular pattern made by free machining a spiral pattern on silk georgette with fabric held in a hoop & shirring elastic in the bobbin.
GATHERING Sheet 6
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Sample 35: Orange beads bound with thread and silk georgette fabric gathered with running stitch in between each bead; Sample 36: Three folds were machined at an angle in the cotton scrim, then they were gathered by pulling the threads. Each fold was then cut along its length and threads withdrawn at random to give the untidy slightly frayed effect. This produced a very interesting texture.
Reference: Colette Wolff. “The Art of Manipulating Fabric”, Krause Publications, Wisconsin, 1996.