Chapter 10: Inlay Applique

Sample 1: Insertion Stitches

From top to bottom: a)Cretan stitch; b)Squared Palestrina- refer to Enthoven Fig.423,p.155; c)Beaded insertion (Cretan) stitch; d)Stitch from a Roumanian blouse-refer to Enthoven Fig.580,p.223; e)Knotted insertion stitch (also called Knotted Cretan) - refer to Enthoven Fig.587,p.226.





Sample 2: Simple Counterchange

Blue fabric was made from blue felt with painted sheer bonded to it with Vlisofix.
Peach coloured fabric was made from peach felt, then blue glitter and copper Angelina fibre trapped under a bonded pale sheer. Shapes were inserted with antique faggot stitch, then stem and running stitches added as decoration. Edges were joined with Chevron stitch and outer edge finished with buttonhole.






Sample 3: Interchange



Painted and bonded fabrics were cut in the two different outer star shapes and bonded to the indigo-blue felt background. Then the common starfish shape was cut from the centre of each one and moved in a clockwise direction to the adjoining shape. These inserts were attached with antique faggot stitch, then beads, sequins and decorative stitches such as running stitch, stem stitch and feather stitch were added. The felt squares were joined by feather stitch using the sewing machine.





Sample 4: Complex Counterchange



The piece was created with 4 squares made using painted bonded sheers or painted Vlisofix bonded to the felt and covered with a sheer. Each square was cut into 4 segments. Moving from the outside to the centre, the second shape cut from the outer colour was rotated anti-clockwise (large curved star) and the third shape (small pointed star) was rotated clockwise. This resulted in the small stars being the same colour as the large curved stars in the opposite squares. The pieces in the middle were also rotated clockwise to match the small stars. All segments were joined using antique faggot stitch and then the squares joined with zig-zag using the sewing machine. Beads and sequins were added in the centre for decoration.



Sample 5: Mock Insertion Stitch

The 5 diamond shapes were cut by dividing the star shape (with Vlisofix bonded to the back) and moving the pieces slightly apart. These were bonded to the blue felt and then stiches added to give the appearance of an insertion stitch, as well as for decoration.