Wednesday, November 25, 2009

CHAPTER 8: NOT WHAT IT SEAMS

1. Decorative Seams
In this section various techniques for embellishing seams were explored. Again I elected to use my purchased fabrics for this chapter in order to conserve my dyed samples.


Sheet 1: Sample A- A fringed border inserted between layers of cotton fabric. This fringe was created by cutting and rolling strips of a stretch fabric and knotting the ends; Sample B- A cheesecloth type fabric was machined with a scalloped pattern on a tear away backing. A few black beads were added to the outer edge for emphasis. I decided I preferred the effect on the wrong side of the patterned fabric, so added some machine and hand stitching to create a bit of balance, and a gentle reminder of blackwork; Sample C- A row of chain stitch was worked on a piece of even weave linen, which was then fringed, plaited and tied off. The fringing was then inserted between two pieces of patterned fabric.
Sheet 2: Sample D -Variegated threads were looped around and then the seam was machined. As this looked a bit bland I then looped some pieces of plaited and twisted wool through the thread loops to add further decoration; Sample E - 4 fabric strips were cut and joined with wide seams. The seamed fabric was then cut into 4 and joined again. All the seams were frayed for decoration. This worked quite well with the striped fabric, due to the bands of colour in the frayed ends.

Sheet 3:Sample F- this seam is more complex than it first appears and builds on sample E. An extra wide piece of black fabric was machined into the seam of the striped fabric and then frayed as well as the stripes. Bundles of the longer black threads were knotted at various intervals to break up the grey/white threads of the striped fabric. This added further contrast and drama to the seam compared to sample E; Sample G - A decorative black net fabric with cream contrast threads was sewn into the seam and then cut irregularly into a rough fringe whch was bent at various angles.

2. Ribbons
Sample H- Examples of decorative stitching on narrow strips of fabric. The upper bundle shows experiments with various machine stitches done in multiple rows or overlapped. The lower bundle shows experiments with mixtures of black and white threads, mostly with one colour in the bobbin and the other in the top spool. Sample I- Layered strips of fabric, stitched together with multiple rows of black and white threads in an irregular manner.




3. Cords
Sheet 1 shows simple cords made by twisting and machinging narrow strips of fabric.
Sheet 2 shows more complex samples which could be used as handles or straps. Sample K - plaited wool was twisted around a fabric strip and machined in place. Each end was finished with a knot and simple tassel. Sample L- a fabric strip was twisted and knotted at short intervals, then black wool twisted around it to add more strength and drama. Sample M- wide strips of fabric were twisted and knotted to make a robust handle.















4. Toggles and closures
Various methods for joining two layers of fabric or closing a flap were explored.
Sheet 1: Sample N - a toggle was made by cutting and rolling a narrow strip of fabric. This was bound with wool and joined to one piece of fabric as a toggle. A plaited woollen loop which could be placed over the toggle to join the two pieces of fabric was added to the second piece of spotted fabric. Sample O - shows a wider strip of fabric rolled and bound with a woollen twisted cord. However this did not seem as useful as the narrower, fatter toggle. Sample P - a toggle or button was created by knotting plaited wool into a ball. A black fabric loop was created as a fastener for the second piece of fabric.
Sheet 2: Sample Q- combination of a large fabric toggle with threads and wool wound around it, plus a large knotted fabric loop. This was more decorative than functional. Sample R - This shows a narrow machined fabric strip with variegated tassells added to each end. This could be used as a decorative tie, either around a roll of fabric as shown here or to join two pieces of fabric by cutting the strip in half and joining the ends to two pieces of material.

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